My 1994 Chrysler Concorde makes a ticking noise when the engine is
running. It goes away when I accelerate. Should I be concerned about this?
Click HERE to
see a Sample Response
I've had my 1989 Honda Accord in for repairs to fix a severe
vibration problem, but it still isn't fixed. It begins to shake when I
approach freeway speeds, but the vibration goes away when I decelerate. What's
wrong? Click
HERE to see a Sample Response
Which car should we keep? We'll be getting a new car soon and
getting rid of one of our current cars--a 1986 Mustang LX with 83,000 miles,
or a 1989 Ford Escort GT with 106,000 miles. We mostly drive on expressways
around Miami. The Mustang has been a good car, except for a small transmission
leak that was fixed with sealant. The Escort has an electrical problem: the
headlights flicker when the fog lights are on, and the radio display doesn't
work periodically. Click HERE to see a
Sample Response
I have a 1991 Chevy 4x4. Every time I turn on the air
conditioning, it does not work, and the word "AC" flashes on the heater panel.
What causes this, and is it anything I can fix myself? Click HERE to see a
Sample Response
The ticking noise on this Chrysler Concorde is commonly caused by
the fuel injector rail. While a noise caused by a fuel injector rail may be a
nuisance, this fuel injector rail problem will not do damage to your car, or
interfere with your ability to continue to drive the vehicle. It may be
repaired at your next appointment for scheduled maintenance.
Other causes of this type of noise would be symptomatic of low fluid levels
such as engine oil, engine coolant or transmission fluid. Be sure to check
these fluid levels, or have them checked. If all the fluid levels are OK, it's
likely that your noise problem is the fuel injector rail. The parts associated
with the fuel injector rail repair include:
4663929 Fuel rail assembly
4765016 Bracket
4473619 Intake plenum gasket
5277723 EGR tube gasket
4418903 Pressure regulator gasket
If this is not the source
of your problem, there are a number of other possible causes. Check all the
fluid levels, or have them checked. If all the fluid levels are OK, listen
carefully to narrow down the possible sources of the noise. Next sample
question
For a severe vibration approaching freeway speeds that becomes
worse as you step on the gas, the most likely cause is a small worn area in a
roller groove of one of the inner CV joints on a drive axle. Imagine a device
that transmits straightline torque from the transmission through a coupling
that sends the power to the wheels and allows for the up-and-down motion of
the suspension. This joint at the transmission end has a cross that couples to
the axle and a roller for each of the crosses. The inboard CV joint has three
roller grooves, which allow for the in-and-out motion of the shaft. When one
of these roller grooves gets a small dimple in it, the dimple catches the
roller as it passes back and forth and momentarily tries to hold the axle
straight. The more gas you give, the more this dimple tries to hold the axle,
causing the outer end of the axle to shake violently and send the vibration
through the suspension and the entire car. The solution is to check the CV
joints for wear, and to replace one or both if they are worn. Next sample
question
(First, we asked which engine was in the Mustang; the
customer responded: 5.0 liter.)
Keep the Mustang. The transmission may need work in the future, but a
Mustang with a 5.0 liter, 302 engine and lower mileage will last longer and
have a better resale value when or if you decide to sell it. The Escort with
the 1.9 liter engine has had more problems with the Electronic Engine Control
and many more drivability problems than the 302 Mustang. Repairs will also be
less with the Mustang for things like the transmission and the electronics.
Yes, miles per gallon are lower with the Mustang, but overall it is a
longer-lasting and more reliable car. Next sample
question
The problem with your truck is a fairly common one, occurring most
often in the spring, when the AC system is on with the heater in the "Defrost"
position. This happens when the outside temperature is between 50 and 70
degrees F.
The blinking "AC" light is governed by the climate control head, which
monitors how often the compressor clutch operates. When it turns on and off in
less than 1.5 seconds ten times in a row, the climate control head disables
the compressor, to keep it from being damaged, and activates the blinking "AC"
light on the dashboard. It may be that the compressor was once low on Freon;
sometimes, even after Freon has been added, the climate control head will
continue to register a problem.
There are some things you can do to fix the problem. First, disconnect the
battery for about a minute. Then reconnect the battery and start the truck.
Select the AC function on the climate control panel and see if the compressor
starts to operate. If the compressor cycles on and off very quickly and the
"AC" light comes on again, you'll need to have the system serviced by a
qualified AC technician. But if the AC starts to work properly, it should run
fine.
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